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Bird Watching on Fraser Island

This morning I got up at 6.00am to go bird watching.

At this point, members of my family are gasping and in various states of shock. Is this really my mother / daughter / sister / auntie, bird watching? She would never have the patience for that! It just goes to show how relaxed I am feeling and how intent on enjoying every aspect of this holiday.

Nick, the Ranger and I wandered through the wetlands behind the hotel and then down on the beach with our binoculars, on the lookout for birdlife. We saw some interesting species (apologies to any real bird fanciers reading this, I don’t quite recall which particular species). We also saw Dingo footprints on the beach – fresh footprints. As it happened, I was the only holiday maker keen enough to get up at that hour to go bird watching. I enjoyed myself and the grounds of the resort where we wandered are just “out of this world”.

Having had a mostly lazy morning, I decided to join the 3.00pm ranger guided “Mangrove Walk”. This was another beautiful and enjoyable walk, which involved us covering ourselves with Mangrove mud and walking the length of the beach until it dried off. My skin will never be the same again 🙂

Ann x

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Fraser Island (a World Heritage Site)

Greetings from Kingfisher Bay Resort, Fraser Island.  I now know that Fraser Island is a giant sand dune, 150km long and between 15 and 22 kilometres wide.  In the middle of the island, there are fresh water lakes and creeks and the whole island is held together by a network of trees, plants and grass.  Since 1992, this Island is a designated World Heritage Site.  My colleague, Liann, was right – it is a beautiful place.

I gleaned all of this information on this morning’s 4 wheel drive bus tour.  “Sit back, buckle up and prepare for a bumpy ride”, ordered our driver.  He wasn’t kidding.  The “roads” are all made of sand and they are bumpy.  When you get to the far side of the Island, to 75 Mile Beach you are on the highway, which is also the beach and yes, it is 75 miles long.

There were 40 of us on the island tour and they were a very friendly group, helped by having a good bus driver, Paul.  Paul worked in retail up until 4 months ago and he is now a driver and tour guide in this lovely resort.  So my idea of the day is for Stephen.  How about getting a HGV licence and becoming a tour guide?  It’s a great job.

Ann x

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Its Raining in Alice Springs

My bus driver told me that he lived in Alice Springs for 10 years and for 7 of those years, there was no rain.  I am here for 5 days and it’s raining cats and dogs. We’ve just had the most dramatic thunder storm.  Now I am excited because we will cross the River Todd on the way to the airport this morning and it might have flowing water for the first time in 18 months. Outside my window, everything looks so fresh. Its funny how your perception of rain changes away from home.

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My fantasy of flying being just like hopping on a bus, came true today.  I was supposed to fly from Alice Springs to Brisbane and take the coach to Hervey Bay.  Instead, when I checked in at Alice Springs Airport, I was handed two boarding passes and my luggage was automatically checked through to Hervey Bay.  Hopefully the airport is close to the ferry port and my luggage makes it all the way.  I am due to catch the ferry this evening to Liann’s favourite place, Fraser Island.

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There was a bit of confusion over my travel arrangements today.   All’s well that ends well. I arrived on Fraser Island 3 hours ahead of schedule.  It is beautiful but more on that tomorrow.

Ann x

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Day 22: A Town Like Alice

This morning’s tour was to the Western McDonnell mountain range, where we enjoyed walks at Simpson’s Gap and Standley Chasm. The tour finished with a picnic lunch and a cup of bush tea. These are lovely spots and perfect photo opportunities. It was a very pleasant morning.

Then in the afternoon, I finally made it to Alice Springs. We had a wonderful guide, John, who brought us on a captivating tour of the town itself, the Royal Flying Doctor Service, the School of the Air (remote schooling for children living in the outback), the site of the original Alice Springs and the old telegraph office. Alice Springs is a fascinating place. The history of this little town in the middle of nowhere and the early innovations (e.g. the telegraph service and the Flying Doctor Service), make Alice a really interesting place to visit.

The first thing that strikes on arriving in Alice is the presence of large numbers of Aboriginal people, approximately 25% of the population of 28,000. They live uneasily side by side with the Australians. Having spent a day in Alice, listening and observing, I believe that the Australians are genuine in their efforts to solve this problem. It is a problem and I am not sure how you can ever integrate two such different cultures.

Ann x

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Sounds of Silence Dinner

 

Last night we dined under the stars at an elevated site half way between Uluru and Kata Tjuta (the Olgas). The Sounds of Silence Dinner began with a sparkling wine reception where we listened to the haunting sounds of a talented didgeridoo player and watched the sun set over the Rocks. My table companions were two couples and a student from Uruguay whom we “kidnapped” to make up the numbers for the table.

One couple, I had already encountered that morning on the sun rise walk. I guessed that they were Scandinavian, a bit standoffish and I took an unreasonable dislike to them. They were actually Spanish, very friendly and interesting and on their honeymoon. How often we make false initial judgements. The 2nd couple were in their 60’s, in a second and very happy relationship and were also great company. We enjoyed a gourmet meal, a fascinating presentation on the night sky and a generally lovely evening.

Another early start (4am) to travel to King’s Canyon. There we had the choice of two walks, a tough 3.5 hour walk up to the rim of the Canyon or an easier walk to explore the rock strewn canyon floor. On the basis of the weather forecast for a hot 40 degrees, I chose the easier walk.

Ann x

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Sunset, Sunrise and Survival

Photos courtesy of Snapfish

http://www3.snapfish.ie/snapfishie/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=6248033006/a=82828258_82828258/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/

Sunset:  imagine sitting side by side with hundreds of people on campstools, sipping wine and watching the sun set at Uluru.  As it sets, the Rock starts to change colour and the sky turns orange and purple.  It was beautiful.  I sat with my new friends, Cathy and Daryl and we toasted the New Year and life.

Sunrise:  not many hours later, we are up again for our sunrise tour.  I set my alarm for 3.30am.  Back at Uluru, we take polystyrene cups of coffee and head to the viewing point to gaze again at Uluru as it changes appearance with the rising sun.  Afterwards, we did a fascinating guided cultural walk around the base of the Rock.  The stories were magical and made a long walk very enjoyable.

Survival:  the Red Centre tour is not for the faint hearted.  It involves basic accommodation, early rising, long days, tough enough walks in sweltering heat and little provision for meals.  We are up too early for breakfast and home tired and too late for dinner.  Don’t worry, I wouldn’t change a thing.  The experience is well worth it.

Dinner under the stars at Uluru tonight.

Ann x

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Journey to the Red Centre

 

In the end, I had a lovely relaxing day at the Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge.  After posting my blog, I went for a swim and then lounged by the pool.  Dinner in the campsite café was a delicious beef steak with mushroom sauce and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc (I hope it was beef and not camel, as suggested by our driver today).

The luxury coach picked us up at 6.40am for our drive to Uluru (Ayers Rock).  Our group today was a family of 5, which included two grandmothers, a couple and myself.  “Sit back, relax and let the world go by” said our driver and we did.  The journey was 460km through some of the most beautiful and unforgiving landscape on earth.  This 460km consisted mainly of just 8 cattle ranches, with in excess of 1 million acres of land each.  The land was originally developed by white settlers in the 1800’s with the assistance of camels, which were subsequently let loose.  There are now more than 1 million wild camels in Central Australia.

I will spend 3 days and 2 nights in this area, staying at the Pioneer Outback Lodge in the Ayers Rock Resort.  My adventures begin this evening with a tour to watch the sun set over Uluru.

Ann x

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Day 18: Alice Springs

 

Well the girl with the romantic dreams has arrived in Alice Springs.  Will I meet my Bush Ranger and live happily ever after?  Probably not 🙂   But I think I am going to enjoy Alice every bit as much as Perth, Melbourne and Cairns.

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Right, I have been here half an hour or so.  When I say “here”, I mean the Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge.  I mentioned that this would be the budget part of my trip.  It’s basic and hot – very, very hot.  It could be worse.  The room has air conditioning and there is a café that opens for dinner and a supermarket.  I headed for the supermarket as soon as I arrived and stocked up on water and other basics.  I thought I might find it too hot to walk there again.  I may need to revisit my plans of finding romance in the outback 🙂

I don’t know where Alice Springs is.  I haven’t seen it yet.  My companion on the plane, a gold miner, warned me to be careful of the locals.  So I might just wait for my tour tomorrow and enjoy the campsite pool, feeding the wallabies and the Wi-Fi.  All of life’s little luxuries.

My first 2 day tour starts at 6.40am tomorrow.

Ann x

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Fireworks and Fitzroy Island

1st January 2012

Happy New Year!  2012 started in style.  Just before midnight, I walked the short distance to the beach to watch the Cairns fireworks display.  I was so impressed by the scene; good humoured and low key, very Australian.  On the stroke of midnight, the spectacle began.  There is something uplifting and quite thrilling about fireworks.  A large black man standing beside me, who I had been eyeing with a degree of suspicion, turned to me and with a smile and 4 little words, lit up my night, “Happy New Year, Lady”

This morning a stretch limousine arrived to drive me to the ferry for my trip to Fitzroy Island.  I felt like I was living the dream.  I arrived and checked into my hotel room for an overnight stay.  It I ever win the lottery, I will head straight back to Fitzroy Island.  I am in heaven.  Not only is this little island out on the Barrier Reef, stunningly beautiful but I am staying in the most amazing place.  A luxury apartment on the top floor overlooking the gardens and a private beach with…. wait for it girls, its own laundry facilities!

There is no Wi-Fi here, so I will write the blog and post on my return to Cairns.

With love from paradise X

 

2nd January 2012

I spent one night and two days on Fitzroy Island.  It really was beautiful.  On the ferry over, I got talking to a rather genteel lady who told me that she used to live on the island.  Her husband was the lighthouse keeper and she raised her children there.  She was on a family outing with her daughter and grandchildren.  On my first afternoon, I decided to walk to the lighthouse.  It was a 2.8km walk up a steep path in the sweltering heat.  The view from the lighthouse was stunning but it struck me that this would have been a rather lonely and remote life for the lighthouse keeper’s family.

When I was booking my holiday I told Jamie, my travel agent, that I wanted to be somewhere special on New Year’s Day.  She didn’t let me down.  After that little bit of luxury, I need to prepare myself for the budget aspect of my trip – Alice Springs and Ayers Rock.  This also happens to be the trip that I am most looking forward to.  As a young girl, I was enthralled by the film, A Town Like Alice.  The film was based on a novel by Neville Shute and on checking Wikipedia; I discovered that the film was made in 1956.

Off to pack again.

Ann x

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New Year Resolutions

 

I don’t make New Year resolutions. My belief is that anytime of year is the right time for resolving to make changes. As it happens, 2011 wasn’t my all-time favourite year. Things happened in the early months which were upsetting to me and cast a shadow over much of the year. It was in an effort to regain control of my life that I started planning this wonderful holiday. So at midnight tonight, I will bid farewell to the old year and raise my glass to 2012. I will be on the beach front in Cairns enjoying a real Australian firework display. Way to go!

Today’s trip to Cape Tribulation and Daintree National Park was taken with a friendly group of backpackers and others. We started with a tour of the award winning Wildlife Habitat where I was particularly taken with the birdlife – parrots, emu, cockatoos and the rare cassowary. Next stop was a cruise down the Daintree River on the lookout for crocodiles. Our search was rewarded with a sighting of the king of the river. We didn’t stay in his patch too long. Our picnic lunch was followed by a leisurely walk through the Rainforest ending up at the beautiful Myall Beach. As always, the scenery was lovely and the company most enjoyable.

Ann x

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